Enhanced Sunscreen Effects via Layer-By-Layer Self-Assembly of Chitosan/Sodium Alginate/Calcium Chloride/EHA.

The sunscreen nanocapsules were successfully synthesized by the way of layer-by-layer self-assembly using charged droplets (prepared by emulsification of LAD-30, Tween-80 and EHA (2-Ethylhexyl-4-dimethylaminobenzoate)) as templates. Chitosan/sodium alginate/calcium chloride were selected as wall materials to wrap EHA. The emulsions with the ratio of Tween-80 to EHA (1:1) were stable. A stable NEI negative emulsion can be obtained when the ratio of Tween-80 and LAD-30 was 9:1. Chitosan solutions (50 kDa, 0.25 mg/mL) and sodium alginate solutions (0.5 mg/mL) were selected to prepare nanocapsules. The nanocapsules were characterized via some physico-chemical methods. Based on the synergistic effects of the electrostatic interaction between wall materials and emulsifiers, EHA was effectively encapsulated. DLS and TEM showed that the sunscreen nanocapsules were dispersed in a spherical shape with nano-size, with the increasing number of assembly layers, the size increased from 155 nm (NEI) to 189 nm (NEII) to 201 nm (NEIII) and 205 nm after solidification. The release studies in vitro showed sustained release behavior of the nanocapsules were observed with the increase of the number of deposition layers, implying a good coating effect. The sunscreen nanocapsules could control less than 50% the release of EHA after crosslinking of calcium chloride and sodium alginate, which also could effectively avoid the stimulation of the sun protection agent on the skin.

Percutaneous Absorption of Sunscreen Filters: Review of Issues and Challenges.

Although skin is a vital barrier to the outside world, it is permeable to certain substances used in topical pharmacotherapy. It is therefore not surprising that other xenobiotics intentionally or accidentally coming in contact with skin can cross the skin barrier. Long before the turn of the millennium, it became clear that sunscreen filters from sunscreen products can be systemically absorbed and detected in urine and plasma. Against this background, we review issues and challenges with safety assessments related to the possible percutaneous absorption of the sunscreen filters. A reference is made to the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (version 1 August 2018) and the concepts of the Maximal Usage Trial (MUsT) and Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE), currently discussed in the United States.

Size Matters! Issues and Challenges with Nanoparticulate UV Filters.

Preparations containing pigments have been used since ancient times to protect against negative effects of solar radiation. Since the 1950s, sunscreen products containing micronized TiO2 and ZnO have been marketed. These products were soon regarded as cosmetically unattrac-tive due to their property of remaining as a white paste on the skin, a result of particle sizes. In order to eliminate these unfavourable properties, particle size distribution was lowered into a range below 100 nm, a size threshold for decreasing the particle's optical property to reflect visible light. After 2000, new nanoparticulate organic filters were developed. Effects of both the inorganic and organic nanoparticulate substances - alone or in combination - with non-particulate UV filters were well documented and had shown great effectiveness. At the time, nanotechnology fuelled great hope in the progress of science and technology, including the health sector and cosmetics industry. Instead, influenced by images from the science fiction literature of self-replicating nanorobots destroying all living matter or health and environmental disasters caused by asbestos, fear of this new unknown amongst the general population has hindered acceptance and progress of nano-enabled products. Consumers have started to suspect that the particles permeate through skin, are absorbed by the blood and are distributed throughout the body, causing disease. Not least because of public pressure, cosmetics - which include sunscreen products - became the first product segment in which appropriately manufactured substances were subject to stringent rules. Despite advanced regulation and rigorous approval procedures for nanoparticulate UV filters, widespread reservations remain. Possible reasons could be a lack of knowledge of current legislation and unclear ideas about nature and behaviour of nanoparticles. Against this background, we discuss the nature and behaviour of nanoparticulate UV filters within finished products, on the skin and potentially in the skin, and the regulatory framework that ensures that nanoparticulate UV filters and the sunscreen products containing them are safe to use.

Preclinical and clinical studies to evaluate cutaneous biodistribution, safety and efficacy of UV filters encapsulated in mesoporous silica SBA-15.

Innovative technologies have been designed to improve efficacy and safety of chemical UV filters. Encapsulation can enhance efficacy and reduce transdermal permeation and systemic exposure. The aims of this work were (i) to determine the cutaneous biodistribution of avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) incorporated in mesoporous silica SBA-15 and (ii) to perform preclinical (in vitro) and (iii) clinical safety studies to demonstrate their innocuity and to evaluate sun protection factor (SPF) in humans. Skin penetration studies showed that deposition of OXY and AVO in porcine and human skin after application of stick formulation with incorporated filters (stick incorporated filters) was significantly lower than from a marketed (non-encapsulated) stick. Cutaneous deposition and transdermal permeation of OXY in and across human skin were 3.8-and 13.4- fold lower, respectively, after application of stick entrapped filters. Biodistribution results showed that encapsulation in SBA-15 decreased AVO and OXY penetration reaching porcine and human dermis. Greater deposition (and permeation) of OXY in porcine skin than in human skin, pointed to the role of follicular transport. Stick incorporated filters had good biocompatibility in vivo and safety profiles, even under sun-exposed conditions. Entrapment of UV filters improved the SPF by 26% and produced the same SPF profile as a marketed stick. Overall, the results showed that SBA-15 enabled safety and efficacy of UV filters to be increased.

Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties.

OBJECTIVE: We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. METHODS: After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. RESULTS: The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. CONCLUSION: These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.

OBJECTIF: Nous avons étudié la cinétique de pénétration cutanée et les propriétés antioxydantes d'une formulation solaire contenant deux antioxydants, l'oxothiazolidine (OTZ) et le δ-tocophéryl glucoside (DTG). L'OTZ se transforme directement en taurine en présence de stress oxydant sans l'action des enzymes cutanées, tandis que le DTG est métabolisé par les enzymes cutanées pour libérer le δ-tocophérol qui est la molécule ayant les propriétés antioxydantes. MÉTHODES: Après application topique sur un modèle d'épiderme humain reconstruit dérivé de follicules pileux (RHE), suivi d'une irradiation solaire, la cinétique de biodisponibilité et les réponses antioxydantes de ces deux composés ont été mesurées sur 24 h. Les marqueurs du stress oxydatif étaient la production de malondialdéhyde (MDA), l'activité de la superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et de la catalase. RÉSULTATS: Les deux antioxydants ont des profils de biodisponibilité différents. L'OTZ pénètre rapidement dans la peau, tandis que le DTG pénètre lentement et est biotransformé par les enzymes cutanés pour libérer le δ-tocophérol. Par rapport à l'OTZ seul, la protection oxydante sur les niveaux de MDA et les activités SOD et catalase était plus élevée lorsque le DTG était utilisé seul ou en association avec OTZ. Lorsqu'il est utilisé en combinaison, le degré de protection augmente au cours du temps et atteint son maximum 2h post-irradiation et reste constant durant 24 h. Le DTG pénètre lentement dans la peau et est présent dans la peau durant 24h post-irradiation, permettant ainsi un apport lent mais constant de δ-tocophérol. En revanche, la protection oxydante via l'OTZ est immédiate mais de courte durée en raison de sa pénétration rapide à travers le RHE. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats indiquent une action de protection solaire complémentaire de l'OTZ et du DTG avec une absorption immédiate d'OTZ juste après l'application topique de la formulation, et une libération cutanée prolongée de δ-tocophérol grâce à la pénétration et la métabolisation plus lentes du DTG.

Novel simultaneous method for the determination of avobenzone and oxybenzone in human plasma by UHPLC-MS/MS with phospholipid removal pretreatment: An application to a sunscreen clinical trial.

Application of sunscreen is one of many ways to protect skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Sunscreen products are widely used and regulated as over-the-counter drug products in the United States. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration recommends an assessment of human systemic absorption of sunscreen active ingredients with a Maximal Usage Trial. The FDA conducted a clinical study to determine the systemic exposure of sunscreen active ingredients present in 4 commercially available sunscreen products of different formulation types under maximal usage conditions. To support this clinical study, a sensitive and specific LC-MS/MS method for the simultaneous determination of the two sunscreens avobenzone and oxybenzone in human plasma was developed. Phospholipid removal 96-well protein precipitation plates were used for sample clean-up and the extracted samples were chromatographed on an Ethylene-Bridged Hybrid (BEH) C18 column in isocratic flow using 10 mM ammonium formate in 0.1% formic acid and methanol (24:76, v/v) as a mobile phase. A triple quadrupole mass spectrometer in multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode was used to acquire data. The method was validated as per current FDA bioanalytical method validation guidance, in the ranges 0.20-12.00 ng/mL for avobenzone and 0.40-300.00 ng/mL for oxybenzone. The validated method was used toanalyzethese active ingredients in human clinical study samples.

A Handful of Sunscreen for Whole-Body Application.

BACKGROUND: The rule of thumb "Fill up a handful of sunscreen and spread it all over your body" has been used in several sun safety campaigns. The intention was to increase the applied sunscreen to obtain a quantity of 2 mg/cm2 to all accessible skin. The present study is the first to investigate how this advice works in practice, evaluated by quantity of sunscreen applied and amount of covered skin. METHODS: Seventeen volunteers wearing swimwear were asked to "Fill up a handful and spread it all over your body." Before and after sunscreen application, the volunteers were photographed in black light. As sunscreen absorbs black light, the darkness of the skin increases with increasing amounts of applied sunscreen, making it possible to identify skin left without coverage. The sunscreen container was weighed before and after to quantify the amount of sunscreen applied. RESULTS: A median of 21% of the accessible skin was left completely without coverage. The 79% covered area was covered with a median of 1.12 mg/cm2, not the expected 2 mg/cm2. CONCLUSION: In practice, the advice "Fill up a handful of sunscreen and spread it all over your body" led to a better but still modest protection, compared to the intended effect.

Safety Concerns of Organic Ultraviolet Filters: Special Focus on Endocrine-Disrupting Properties.

Acute and chronic effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human health have long been a concern. It is well known that acute UVR causes epidermal hyperplasia, erythema, delayed tanning, pigment darkening, and free-radical formation. Apart from acute effects of UVR, its chronic effects involve immunosuppression, photoaging, exacerbation, photodermatoses, and photocarcinogenesis. To protect skin from harmful effects of UVR, UV filters were developed. But these may cause harmful effects in humans and on the environment; adverse effects of these chemicals have been evaluated for > 20 yr. Studies show that UV filters may lead to endocrine disruption, hepatotoxicity, mutagenicity, and systemic toxicity. Literature on environmental effects of UV filters suggests that they are bioaccumulative, pseudopersistent, and possibly toxic to aquatic ecosystems. The objective of this review is to summarize toxic effects and safety concerns of organic UV filters on human beings and the environment. We focus on UV filters' organic endocrine-disrupting effects by reviewing both in vivo and in vitro studies.

Synthesis and Characterization of Nanostructured Lipid Nanocarriers for Enhanced Sun Protection Factor of Octyl p-methoxycinnamate.

Sunlight is important to health, but higher exposure to radiation causes early aging of the skin and skin damage that can lead to skin cancers. This study aimed at producing a stable octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC)-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) sunscreen, which can help in the photoprotective effect. NLC was produced by emulsification-sonication method and these systems were composed of myristyl myristate (MM), caprylic capric triglyceride (CCT), Tween® 80 (TW), and soybean phosphatidylcholine (SP) and characterized by dynamic light scattering (DLS), zeta potential (ZP) measurement, atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and in vitro release studies. Pre-formulation studies were performed changing TW concentrations and no differences were found at concentrations of 1.0 and 2.0%. Two selected formulations were designed and showed an average size of 91.5-131.7, polydispersity index > 0.2, and a negative value of ZP. AFM presented a sphere-like morphology and SEM showed ability to form a thin film. DSC exhibited that the incorporation of OMC promoted reduction of enthalpy due to formation of a more amorphous structure. Drug release shows up to 55.74% and 30.57%, and this difference could be related to the presence of SP in this formulation that promoted a more amorphous structure; the release mechanism study indicated Fickian diffusion and relaxation. Sun protection factor (SPF) evaluation was performed using NLC and presented values around 40, considerably higher than those observed in the literature. The developed formulations provide a beneficial alternative to conventional sunscreen formulations.

In Vitro Testing of Sunscreens for Dermal Absorption: A Platform for Product Selection for Maximal Usage Clinical Trials.

Sunscreen products contain UV filters as active ingredients for the protection of the skin against UVR. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a new proposed rule in 2019 (84.FR.6204) for sunscreens and identified the need for additional safety data for certain UV filters including their dermal absorption data. Dermal absorption data reveal systemic exposure of UV filters in humans, which can be obtained from clinical maximal usage trials. FDA guidance recommends conducting in vitro skin permeation tests (IVPTs) to help select formulations for maximal usage clinical trials as IVPT results may be indicative of in vivo absorption. This case study reports in vitro methodologies used for the selection of sunscreen products for an FDA-sponsored proof-of-concept maximal usage clinical trial. An IVPT method was developed using human cadaver skin. Commercially available sunscreen products were tested to determine the skin absorption potential of common UV filters using the IVPT. All the studied sunscreen products demonstrated a certain degree of skin absorption of UV filters using IVPT, and a formulation rank order was obtained. These sunscreen products were also characterized for several formulation properties including the globule size in emulsions, which was found to be an indicator for the rank order.

Human metabolism and urinary excretion kinetics of the UV filter Uvinul A plus® after a single oral or dermal dosage.

Hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate, better known under its trading name Uvinul A plus® is a UV filter mainly used in sunscreens, but also present in other cosmetic products with a maximum concentration of 10% (w/w) according to the EU directive. In this study we investigated the human metabolism after a single oral and a single dermal dose of Uvinul A plus®, respectively. Samples collected within 72 h of administration were analyzed with a newly developed UHPLC-MS/MS method. Results of the study revealed three major urinary metabolites, namely 2-(4-amino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (AHB), 2-(4-(ethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (EHB) and 2-(4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (DHB), representing 52% of the administered oral dose. The three major metabolites are further converted into four minor metabolites with an additional hydroxyl group in the aniline moiety. Toxicokinetic parameters (amount excreted, tmax, elimination constant and half-life t1/2) and conversion factors were determined for the three major metabolites. The conversion factors were used to estimate the mean daily exposure to Uvinul A plus® in spot urine samples from 58 volunteers not intentionally exposed to Uvinul A plus® derived from a pilot study. The three major metabolites were quantifiable in 26% of the samples. In 35% of the samples, at least one major metabolite could be quantified. The daily systemic exposure to Uvinul A plus® was estimated to approximately 8.1-9.3 µg/d by applying the combined conversion factor for all three major metabolites. In conclusion, a very low systemic exposure to DHHB was observed with regard to the no observed adverse effect level (NOAEL) as an established threshold for chronic uptake.

Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial.

Importance: A prior pilot study demonstrated the systemic absorption of 4 sunscreen active ingredients; additional studies are needed to determine the systemic absorption of additional active ingredients and how quickly systemic exposure exceeds 0.5 ng/mL as recommended by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Objective: To assess the systemic absorption and pharmacokinetics of the 6 active ingredients (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate) in 4 sunscreen products under single- and maximal-use conditions. Design, Setting, and Participants: Randomized clinical trial at a clinical pharmacology unit (West Bend, Wisconsin) was conducted in 48 healthy participants. The study was conducted between January and February 2019. Interventions: Participants were randomized to 1 of 4 sunscreen products, formulated as lotion (n = 12), aerosol spray (n = 12), nonaerosol spray (n = 12), and pump spray (n = 12). Sunscreen product was applied at 2 mg/cm2 to 75% of body surface area at 0 hours on day 1 and 4 times on day 2 through day 4 at 2-hour intervals, and 34 blood samples were collected over 21 days from each participant. Main Outcomes and Measures: The primary outcome was the maximum plasma concentration of avobenzone over days 1 through 21. Secondary outcomes were the maximum plasma concentrations of oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate over days 1 through 21. Results: Among 48 randomized participants (mean [SD] age, 38.7 [13.2] years; 24 women [50%]; 23 white [48%], 23 African American [48%], 1 Asian [2%], and 1 of unknown race/ethnicity [2%]), 44 (92%) completed the trial. Geometric mean maximum plasma concentrations of all 6 active ingredients were greater than 0.5 ng/mL, and this threshold was surpassed on day 1 after a single application for all active ingredients. For avobenzone, the overall maximum plasma concentrations were 7.1 ng/mL (coefficient of variation [CV], 73.9%) for lotion, 3.5 ng/mL (CV, 70.9%) for aerosol spray, 3.5 ng/mL (CV, 73.0%) for nonaerosol spray, and 3.3 ng/mL (CV, 47.8%) for pump spray. For oxybenzone, the concentrations were 258.1 ng/mL (CV, 53.0%) for lotion and 180.1 ng/mL (CV, 57.3%) for aerosol spray. For octocrylene, the concentrations were 7.8 ng/mL (CV, 87.1%) for lotion, 6.6 ng/mL (CV, 78.1%) for aerosol spray, and 6.6 ng/mL (CV, 103.9%) for nonaerosol spray. For homosalate, concentrations were 23.1 ng/mL (CV, 68.0%) for aerosol spray, 17.9 ng/mL (CV, 61.7%) for nonaerosol spray, and 13.9 ng/mL (CV, 70.2%) for pump spray. For octisalate, concentrations were 5.1 ng/mL (CV, 81.6%) for aerosol spray, 5.8 ng/mL (CV, 77.4%) for nonaerosol spray, and 4.6 ng/mL (CV, 97.6%) for pump spray. For octinoxate, concentrations were 7.9 ng/mL (CV, 86.5%) for nonaerosol spray and 5.2 ng/mL (CV, 68.2%) for pump spray. The most common adverse event was rash, which developed in 14 participants. Conclusions and Relevance: In this study conducted in a clinical pharmacology unit and examining sunscreen application among healthy participants, all 6 of the tested active ingredients administered in 4 different sunscreen formulations were systemically absorbed and had plasma concentrations that surpassed the FDA threshold for potentially waiving some of the additional safety studies for sunscreens. These findings do not indicate that individuals should refrain from the use of sunscreen. Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier: NCT03582215.

Noninvasive in vivo human multiphoton microscopy: a key method in proving nanoparticulate zinc oxide sunscreen safety.

We describe the contribution of our in vivo multiphoton microscopy (MPM) studies over the last ten years with DermaInspect;® (JenLab, Germany), a CE-certified medical tomograph based on detection of fluorescent biomolecules, to the assessment of possible penetration of nanoparticulate zinc oxide in sunscreen through human skin. At the time we started our work, there was a strong movement for the precautionary principle to be applied to the use of nanoparticles in consumer products due to a lack of knowledge. The combined application of different MPM modalities, including spectral imaging, fluorescence lifetime imaging, second harmonic fluorescence generation, and phosphorescence microscopy, has provided overwhelming evidence that nanoparticle zinc oxide particles do not penetrate human skin when applied to various skin types with a range of methods of topical sunscreen application. MPM has also been used to study the viable epidermal morphology and redox state in supporting the safe use of topical zinc oxide nanoparticles. The impact of this work is emphasized by the recent proposed rule by the United States FDA on Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use, which listed only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide of the currently marketed products to be generally recognized as safe and effective.

Investigations on the uptake and transformation of sunscreen ingredients in duckweed (Lemna gibba) and Cyperus alternifolius using high-performance liquid chromatography drift-tube ion-mobility quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry.

The uptake, translocation and transformation of three UV-blockers commonly employed in sunscreens, namely avobenzone, octocrylene and octisalate from water by Lemna gibba and Cyperus alternifolius was investigated. Reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography coupled to drift-tube ion-mobility quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry was used for analyzing the extracts from the selected plants after incubation with the UV-blockers for one week. For avobenzone several transformation products resulting from hydroxylation, demethylation and oxidation of the parent molecule could be identified by measuring accurate mass, performing MS/MS experiments and by determining their drift-tube collision cross sections employing nitrogen as drift gas. In addition, the plants were subjected to two commercially available sunscreens, providing similar results to those obtained for the standard solutions of the UV-blockers. Finally, a kinetic study on the uptake and transformation of avobenzone, octocrylene and octisalate was conducted over a period of 216 h, revealing that the UV-filters were mostly present in their parent form and only to a smaller part converted into transformation products.

Safety of titanium dioxide nanoparticles in cosmetics.

Titanium dioxide (TiO2 ) is widely used in a variety of products including cosmetics. TiO2 in its nanoparticle form (nano-TiO2 ) is now the only form used as an ultraviolet (UV) filter in sunscreens, but also in some day creams, foundations and lip balms. While its efficacy as a UV filter is proven in the prevention of skin cancers and sunburns, some concerns have been raised about its safety. Indeed, considering its small size, nano-TiO2 is suspected to penetrate dermal, respiratory or gastrointestinal barriers, disseminate in the body and therefore constitute a potential risk to the consumer. At the skin level, most studies performed in humans or animals showed that nano-TiO2 did not penetrate beyond the outer layers of stratum corneum to viable cells and did not reach the general circulation, either in healthy or in compromised skin. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers nano-TiO2 as a non-sensitizer and as mild- or non-irritant to skin and concludes in no evidence of carcinogenicity (supported by the European Chemicals Agency), mutagenicity or reproductive toxicity after dermal exposure to nano-TiO2 . According to the SCCS, nano-TiO2 from sunscreens does not present any health risk when applied on the skin at a concentration up to 25%. However, the SCCS does not recommend the use of nano-TiO2 in formulations that may lead to exposure of the consumer's lungs by inhalation (sprayable products and powders). Indeed, even if human data are sparse and inconsistent, lung inflammation was reported in animals. In 2016, the EU Cosmetic Regulation made nano-TiO2 as an authorized UV filter, except in products that could lead to exposure of the lungs. After oral exposure, nano-TiO2 absorption and toxicity are limited. The incidental oral exposure to nano-TiO2 contained in lip balms is thus not expected to induce adverse health effects.

Review of the safety of octocrylene used as an ultraviolet filter in cosmetics.

Octocrylene or octocrilene is an organic ultraviolet (UV) filter which absorbs mainly UVB radiation and short UVA wavelengths. It is used in various cosmetic products to either provide an appropriate sun protection factor in sunscreen products or to protect cosmetic formulations from UV radiation. There is no discussion that UV filters are beneficial ingredients in cosmetics since they protect from skin cancer, but octocrylene has been recently incriminated to potentially induce adverse effects on the endocrine system in addition to having allergic and/or photoallergic potential. However, the substance has the advantage to work synergistically with other filters allowing a beneficial broad photoprotection, e.g. it stabilizes the UVA filter avobenzone (i.e. butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane). Like all chemicals used in cosmetics, the safety profile of octocrylene is constantly under assessment by the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) since it has been registered according to the European regulation Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. Summaries of safety data of octocrylene are publicly available on the ECHA website. This review aims to present the main safety data from the ECHA website, as well as those reported in scientific articles from peer-reviewed journals. The available data show that octocrylene does not have any endocrine disruption potential. It is a rare sensitizer, photocontact allergy is more frequent and it is considered consecutive to photosensitization to ketoprofen. Based on these results, octocrylene can be considered as safe when used as a UV filter in cosmetic products at a concentration up to 10%.